Відео

@@markwickham1179 Hi Mark. Cheers for the positive feedback. I ended up buying a couple of used struts, from a local breaker yard in the end. As far I can recall, there are differences between the early ED models and the later facelifted variants. That also applies to the bearing knuckle/stub axle as well. It's strange that you are having to replace strut bearing so frequently though? Have you checked to see if the L/H coil is the same width as the R/H coil? I had a quick look on the Autodoc site and two springs are listed as 08- 2009 to 08-2012 and also up to 07-2009 for the original ED. Here's the link with the info and you'll see the different dimensions www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/coil-springs-10213/kia/cee-d/ceed-hatchback-ed/19941-1-6-crdi-90

I was increasing climate change, by adding more hot air

I think the hole was a bit too wide for the plug but I'll try another type at some in the future.

@@atticstattic can't be working on an empty stomach 🤣

@@davidnjoroge9236 thank you, hope it helps it if you're undertaking this task 😁

@@gtd65 yes this will be of great help from the diagnosis to the installation. Thank you 🙏

@@davidnjoroge9236 you're welcome David

@@johnniewelken5417 glad to hear the video was helpful for you. I would just recommend checking the condition of the caliper piston (for corrosion) and dust seals (for any rips or tears) and any signs of fluid leakage. I did a front brake service, a few months back, which you can see here ua-cam.com/video/cXNJPZVfgoA/v-deo.html There are other videos to look at but you'll probably find the front end is easier than the rear, to replace parts and service components.

Here's the video from a couple of years ago when I replaced the front discs & pads. ua-cam.com/video/NAcCRYva3lY/v-deo.htmlsi=MiMlASk1ovT4Uo2o

@@tommyhentila4394 Cheers! Hope it all goes smoothly.

@@gettingoutdoorswiththegree5156 good to hear, hope there were not too many surprises 👍

Cheers Mr T 😀👍

Hi Alan, I wonder if it's down to the type of washer fluid clogging them up or an actual design issue? I've got another video where the pump was completely sludged up.

@gtd65 OK great. I'll have a look. Thanks for your info.

Disc surfaces were still serviceable but the discs look pretty rusty, in general, as is the norm here in Scotland. As far as I recall, this was just a caliper swap and the existing pads/discs were used.

Haha, that's my pal Adam 😂 He was having trouble with his breathing after one of his Wuhan flu shots....😊

@@achichorniadesegornia which type?

The orange one please

@@BrutalR0y I suspect the local dealer will be the simple answer but you'll be able to get some at a scrappy or breakers yard. I've not seen any online, so far.

@@gtd65thanks mate will have to keep looking as really need the orange clip myself

@@BrutalR0y I'm not sure why they don't seem to be available online. There's a variety of clips on AliExpress but without the part number it might be difficult to determine if it's the correct clip.

@@samwilson756 I let the handbrake off, then adjusted. Just make sure it's not dragging, when you've finished.

@@burtonfootballer5408 I've got another video where I bought some replacements off AliExpress. Not quite the same spray pattern but give a decent output. I'll try the boiling in vinegar portion and see how that works out though! 👍

@sgtfoureyes, this is the seller and caliper that I purchased. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352311253579

@@user-fy5tq8fi3d no problems so far, two years later

Hi David, I'm not sure why they changed to the discs, as the drum brakes worked perfectly on the previous Jazz we had. Never any trouble with the drum handbrake, other than perhaps adjusting the cable under the centre console once in four years of ownership. I think it's a job you expect to do every other year or just before the MoT to make sure it's all good. Previously you wouldn't leave the car without putting it in 1st gear. They are such good little cars otherwise.

@@uncletom6758 I'll need to have another look at it. Gave the carb a good clean but had the same problem.

@@husseinlodhee2357 merci beaucoup Lodhee. I'm actually in Paris as I type 😉

WHERE SIR

@@husseinlodhee2357 right now I'm on the Batobus at Notre Dame.

@@gtd65 YOU WILL STAY HOW MANY DAYS IN Paris

have you a portable number

Hi Giorgio, when you replaced the tank, did you swap over, the in tank fuel pump and sender unit? If it's from the top I'm thinking it might be the seal around the sender unit (see 02:08). You get access to that, under the rear seat, inside the car, so it should be easy enough to check if it has been or is still leaking. If it's not that seal, I'd double check the hose clamps for the fuel filler (08:12). Was it a new or used tank that you fitted? Could it have been a faulty tank that was fitted?

I used to have that in the shed but seem to be using all the remnants of WD40 at the moment!

Cheers Mr Mark! I think I might have read about some folks complaining of a very low bite point, thankfully it's not a problem I've had so far. Here's a link to one possible solution (i30 and Ceed are the same mechanically) i30ownersclub.com/index.php?topic=41905.0

Well worth registering here and putting up a post. Here's an example question related to the clutch. www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/threads/ceed-1-6-crd-clutch-on-floor.15231/?post_id=385406#post-385406

sgtfoureyes, it's a December 2012, pretty much at the tail end of the ED model.

Ah nice, I got a 2009 sw month or so ago 1.6 diesel, my clip on my intercooler hose has part corroded and have a bit of oil seep - hoping it's normal amount of oil from normal use and not the turbo shitting - wondered if yours was in a similar condition

@@sgtfoureyes5972 all seems good so far, no shortage of corrosion up here, unfortunately. How much oil are you using? Mine doesn't seem to burn any, or not enough to notice between oil changes.

@@gtd65 well I've recently took it in for full service as was due, think two week ago- previous owners had it serviced every year apart from 22. Oils currently sitting at the max, one week I'll do 50 miles a day, the next week I do less cause of work car share. Checked oil today and still at full, so I'll keep an eye on it. Wonder if it's just pushing oil built up from the pvc over time - heard this is common in diesels

@@sgtfoureyes5972 I've had mine over 7 years now almost on 194,000 miles. They have a reputation for being very reliable cars in general. Since doing the minor fix on the connector the car is starting up after the first turn of the engine again. If it's anything like my car, I'm sure you'll be very happy with it overall.

Haha I think it's about 20 years old now Kirky!

Looking good 👍

Vlad, you will need to remove the wheel to do that, there is an adjuster which needs to be turned manually to set it correctly. Have a look at this video and you'll see the adjuster. ua-cam.com/video/pvuqiaWRoGg/v-deo.htmlsi=_hpyM6RoKuVKXmyD

@@gtd65 hi! Thanks for your reply. For some reason i can not add here in comments some pictures, so in my case kia ceed 2016 LC16EFY if you check that on eurocarparts for rear brake disks , that doesn t have that hole where i can put the screwdriver in so can adjust, has 2 small holes for those 2 screw but really small. Is it different on my car? Thanks.

@@vladmoloce8915 I see, so you have the JD model? Mine is the earlier ED 2007 to 2012. Looking at Autodoc, it seems there's two options, one with electric handbrake and one without? I'm assuming yours has no inboard shoes for the handbrake and clamps the brake caliper instead? To save time, I'd head over here and make a post with your problem. www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/forums/ceed-2012-2018.55/

Do cars has 2 adjusters? So in your case is in the cabin like in the video, do you have the adjuster by wheel as well? Or either like your case either by rear weels through the disc hole?

@@vladmoloce8915 yes the adjustment in the cabin is basically taking up the slack in the cable. Here's a video giving more detail on the handbrake at the back wheels. ua-cam.com/video/pvuqiaWRoGg/v-deo.htmlsi=lQy_zmTicQRH_IrB

Cheers Adam, the central part that looks like a Phillips screw can sometimes screw out but can be sticky. If so, just use a thin blade and pop them out, then you can easily remove the outer section. Refitting, push in the outer ring first, then simply press in the Phillips part.

Greig, l check in the morning on the manual and see if I can find out.

This is the link to a variety of info that I have www.kia-bg.com/docs/ceed/

Hi Richard, that's certainly the most fiddly part of the job, at 14:12, it's like you need three hands! Have you got somebody to hold the shoes in place while you use two hands and a pair of needle nose plyers?

I could hopefully get an extra pair of hands. Do I rotate the pin or washer. Just checking but what a pin nose pliers?

Sorry "Needle pliers"?

@@richardcollyer5609 You push the cupped washer with the needle nose pliers down past the pin then rotate until it's turned 90 degrees then the the pin should lock and keep the tension. It is very fiddly but patience will get you there.

@@richardcollyer5609 something like these www.diy.com/departments/amtech-mini-needle-nose-pliers-b3020/5032759025114_BQ.prd

Thank you Bulky and very welcome 👍

I'll try the other black one that came with it as well

Haha 😂 it was a miserable effort indeed 🤣

Haha 😅

Very welcome and cheers! As afar as I'm aware, there's just the one small o-ring at the "pointy end" and then the large one at the "fat end", on the third ring? Do you have options for 3 o-rings?

Cheers Kirky!

Very welcome Sandeep.

Hi Declan, I would just use any fully synthetic 5w30 oil. For this oil change, I used Castrol Magnatech, as it was on offer at the time.

Hi Matthew, they do seem to be a problem for many people - especially the orange one, as most seem to be snapped off! I've got another video here that goes into more detail about how to replace and remove etc. ua-cam.com/video/y4M4MwoPbjs/v-deo.htmlsi=thV8cdKH6NFHYrbk

@@gtd65 i ended up getting that clip somehow but i checked out that other vid and had a look how to remove properly. many thanks

Cheers Declan, they are very practical cars.

@@gtd65 from Ireland 🇮🇪

Cheers Bielo Biela 🍻

Cheers Vladislav! 🍻

Yeah, the salt certainly has a lot to answer for. I was thinking about trying some of the lanolin oil spray protection over the summer to see if that makes things look a bit better. It was still sub -zero temps here overnight, last week too!

​@@gtd65have the same impact gun as u Parkside can't go wrong with it

@@declanoshea8417 aye it was decent value at £59.99 from Lidl 😁 Saves a lot of time getting the wheels off for sure too!

Tip for u use a blow torch and heat it up make it easier for u to get the sliding pins out hope this helps u

Got a few things off tumu found them alright like socket set tyre plugs

Hi Gosta and thank you. The springs are certainly a bit on the fiddly side. I'm sure I'll need to get round to the EGR at some point but will hopefully stay away from that for as long as possible! I tend not to use the car for short journeys as much as possible, so fingers crossed mine is as clean as possible for now. Do you do a lot of short journeys or start stop driving in the city? That seems to be the main caused of clogged EGR valves?

@@gtd65 yeah I would say my main use of the car is for rather short trips of max 30 minutes. So I think it'll be something to do at least once and to have a look at the state of it. Would you say it's difficult to remove it?

@@gostaagerberg2153 it doesn't look like a five minute job, unfortunately. I watched a video a few years ago using a Sportage and there's quite a bit of stuff to be removed in that case. I'd be inclined to try using some sort of solvent first. 😇

@connectlogic that's what I did originally but the bearing was shot. See 05:30 for details.

@soundknight from memory this is more of an issue on the driver side (UK/RHD) rear brake caliper? One thing you have to verify is the position of the caliper piston cross shape, relative to the raised bumps on the inner brake pad that has to be aligned to accept the caliper. If not, it will not slide into place, no matter how hard you try. It might be an idea to make sure the handbrake cable (is it not a cable, rather than a hydraulic line?) is fully released.